Fiesta de Santa Marta de Ribarteme

This tradition takes place every July 29th in the parish of San Jose de Ribarteme, in the municipality of As Neves, in the Galician province of Pontevedra. Written records of the celebration date back to the year 1700, though local historians believe the pilgrimage is considerably older, with roots tracing to medieval times when monks and knights returning from the Crusades passed through the Termes valley on the "camino dos frades". Devotion centres on Saint Martha, sister of Lazarus in the biblical account, who is venerated as patroness of the resurrected and guardian of souls. The chapel at the heart of the celebration was ordered rebuilt in 1722 by the Bishop of Tui, and was later replaced in 1805 by the sanctuary that still hosts the festival today. The event has since become known internationally, having been featured by publications such as The Guardian, National Geographic, and The New York Times as one of the world's most distinctive traditions.

Known locally as the "Romeria dos Mortos" (Pilgrimage of the Dead), the day begins with masses held every hour from seven in the morning until midday, followed by the main procession through the roads surrounding As Neves. Its most striking feature is the parade of "os cadaleitos": people who survived a serious illness or a brush with death are carried lying inside open coffins by relatives and friends, as a public gesture of thanks to Saint Martha. Alongside them walk penitents dressed in shrouds and carrying candles, some completing the route on their knees or barefoot, while groups of singers perform the traditional melancholic "alala" chant. Once the procession returns to the sanctuary, the day closes with typical Galician food such as octopus and grilled meat, wine, live music, dancing, and a traditional auction of donated goods and animals to help fund the celebration.

As Neves is a small municipality in the province of Pontevedra, in Galicia, in Spain's northwest corner. Most visitors arrive via Vigo, which has its own airport and train station and lies well under an hour's drive away, or via the city of Pontevedra, also well connected by train and bus to the rest of Galicia. From either city, the sanctuary of Santa Marta is reached by car or local bus along country roads that wind through the Termes river valley; a rental car gives the most flexibility since public transport directly to the village is limited, especially on festival day.

This is a solemn religious occasion rather than a party, so visitors should dress modestly and stay respectful during the coffin procession, especially near the families involved. Arrive well before midday to find a good vantage point, since the route through the village is narrow and draws large crowds. Parking in As Neves itself is very limited on festival day, so consider parking on the outskirts and walking in. Photography is generally tolerated, but remember this is an intensely personal moment of thanksgiving for the "ofrecidos" and their relatives, so be discreet and avoid intrusive close-ups.