San Fermín Txikito

San Fermin Txikito, also known as San Fermin de Aldapa, is Pamplona's little San Fermin, celebrated on the weekend closest to September 25th, the anniversary of the martyrdom of Saint Fermin in Amiens, France, in the year 303. The celebration centres on the church of San Fermin de Aldapa on Calle Dos de Mayo, an early eighteenth-century building raised over a medieval chapel that already venerated the saint; according to local tradition, the site was once the childhood home of the senator Firmus, father of Saint Fermin. The festival's roots run deep, since Pamplona's city council is recorded petitioning the bishop for permission to hold celebrations in the saint's honour as far back as 1591. One of the most fondly remembered editions took place in 1978, when, after a difficult year, the people of Pamplona threw themselves into the September festival with particular enthusiasm.

Unlike its famous July counterpart, San Fermin Txikito is a quieter, distinctly local affair aimed at the people of Pamplona rather than international visitors, and it is not accompanied by bull runs, which have only been staged a handful of times, briefly, back in the 1990s. The festival opens with a txupinazo rocket-launching ceremony at the church of San Fermin de Aldapa, followed by a weekend packed with concerts, dances, Gigantes y Cabezudos giant-figure parades, a mus card game championship, raffles, and live music filling the streets of the Casco Viejo, Pamplona's historic old quarter. It is a chance to see the city celebrate on its own terms, without the crowds of the summer festival.

Pamplona, the capital of Navarra, is served by its own airport with domestic connections to Madrid and Barcelona, as well as by regular train and bus services linking it to major Spanish cities. The Casco Viejo, where San Fermin Txikito takes place, is Pamplona's historic old quarter and is easily reached on foot from the train and bus stations, or via the city's local bus network; a car is not needed once in the city, since the old quarter is largely pedestrianised.

Because this is a local festival rather than a major tourist draw, expect a more relaxed and authentic atmosphere than the July Sanfermines, with far smaller crowds and no need to book accommodation as far in advance. Late September evenings in Pamplona can be cool, so bring a jacket for outdoor concerts and parades. Since there are no bull runs to plan around, visitors can enjoy a slower pace, exploring the Casco Viejo's bars and joining the community events without the frenzy of the summer celebration.